Expedition

Dark Summit – The True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil.

Dark Summit – The True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season by Nick Heil.

Editorial Reviews :
From Booklist :
The year 2006 recorded Mount Everest’s deadliest season on record since 1996 (the killer season that spawned Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air).
To tell the story of the 2006 season, which made global headlines due to the troubling circumstances surrounding the death of a climber, journalist Heil, a climber himself, gives [...]

Tragedy in the Himalaya and Karakoram, 2009 climbing season.

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1. Go Mi-Sun, 41, (also spelled ‘Ko Mi-young’ by some of the local media) lost on Nanga Parbat normal route.
South Korean climber Ko Mi-young, 41, who went missing after a fall from a cliff in the Himalayas, was found dead in a ravine according to South Korean embassy in Pakistan, Sunday – Jul 12, [...]

Nepal urged to reduce Mount Everest climbing fee.

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A leading mountaineering official on Tuesday urged Nepal to reduce climbing fees for Mount Everest and other mountains during the peak climbing season, to lure climbers back from Tibet where mountaineering is cheaper.
Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft)
Tourists are returning to Nepal, one of the world’s poorest countries with largely aid-and tourism-dependent economy, after the Himalayan [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /24/ – Week in Review.

K2 claimed a first victim last week; highly skilled ski-mountaineer Michele Fait slipped and fell while skiing down the Cesen route.
Iran, Afghanistan and Somalia; adventure news arrived from unusual places while a historic meet was held in Nepal, a call went out for Mongolian horses, a last word was posted on Everest spring 2009 and [...]

Sir Chris Bonington Interview.

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On the 21st April 1985 Chris Bonington reached the summit of Mount Everest at the age of 51. He was a member of the Norwegian Everest Expedition. He was the leader of the 1972, 1975 and 1982 British Mount Everest expeditions, and has travelled all over the world, making him become one of Britons most [...]

International Alliance for Mountain Film.

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In February of 2000, a group of people gathered in the vaulted rooms of the Museo della Montagna in Torino, Italy to forge an alliance committed to the future of mountain film.
Not surprisingly, the individuals present were from the some of the most important mountain film festivals in the world, [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /23/ – Week in Review.

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Bad weather has been punishing climbers in Baltoro valley. Nanga images show serious avalanches on the peak and conditions on K2 are even worse than on Broad Peak according to the French climbers, currently on yet another summit push.
Last week ExWeb ran a number of interviews and climbers paid tributes to lost friends. Only [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up – Off To A Rough Start.

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For the worlds top mountaineers, the climbing season never really ends, it just shifts location. With the Himalaya behind us at last (I really mean it this time!), the focus shifts to the Karakorum, where teams have already begun to arrive in Pakistan, and are starting to filter out into the countryside, preparing for the [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /21/ – Week in Review.

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American climbers Micah Dash and Wade Johnson are missing in Sichuan while Jonathan Copp’s remains have been found. Read more in a Monday update at ExWeb.
In other news: Pakistan is gearing up although in lesser numbers. Last-word debriefs still trickle in from the past Nepal/Tibet-Himalaya season; with reportedly also Cho Oyu claiming a victim [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up : Pakistan – Snow thwarts BP summit push, Kinga for two more 8000ers.

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(K2Climb.net/Madrid) The French team on Broad Peak was ready to launch a second summit bid today – heavy snow falling forced them to stay put in BC though.
Fresh from summiting Kangchenjunga, Kinga Baranowska hopes to turn GI and GII into her 7th and 8th 8000ers. Field Touring’s team members are also gearing up to attempt [...]

The 2009 Spring Mountaineering season – reports from main events.

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Ang Tshering writes from Nepal.
Jun 01, 2009
(MountEverest.net) Asian Trekking is among the oldest trekking agencies in Himalaya. Ang Tshering Sherpa is the major expedition organizer in Nepal, with experience dating back to the early history of Everest and Himalaya mountaineering.  
He has made it a tradition to write reports from main events and here [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /20/ – Week in Review.

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The last wave of climbers topped-out Everest last Saturday – as the weather window closed and conditions rapidly turned for the worse. Descending climbers performed several rescues on both sides of the mountain in a sudden storm.
Three climbers were lost – among them 3-time ExWeb award winner Sergei Samoilov; Denis Urubko’s free-spirited and courageous climbing [...]

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 8 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent. Himalaya wrap-up: over on Nanda Devi East.

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Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.
Goal:
Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – [...]

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 7 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

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Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.
Goal:
Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – [...]

Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga – photo gallery.

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Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga.
On 18th of May Kinga Baranowska as the first Polish woman (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warsaw) summited Kangchenjunga (8586 m) which is located in Nepal.
Kangchenjunga have been summited in high winds – however, descent on Kang is reportedly very difficult.

Kinga’s Summits :
Cho Oyu [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /19/ – Week in Review.

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Last week was all about Himalaya. Following an extended storm, the peaks were summitted one after the other in improving weather. Everest (both sides), Lhotse, Manaslu, Dhaula, and Kang all had success – Everest south side in very large numbers.
The most remarkable of them all became Mr Park’s summit of the highly technical Everest SW [...]

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 6 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

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Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.
Goal:
Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – [...]

Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga – video. Nowe relacje o zdobyciu szczytu.

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Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga.
Kinga’s Summits :
Cho Oyu (8201 m) – October , 2003 ;
Broad Peak (8047 m) – Julay 22, 2006 – The 11 woman ascent;
Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Julay 18, 2007
Dhaulagiri (8167 m) May 01, 2008 – first Polish woman
Manaslu (8156 m) October 5, [...]

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 5 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

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Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.
Goal:
Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – [...]

Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką, która zdobyła Kanczendzonge.

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Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga.
Kinga’s Summits :
Cho Oyu (8201 m) – October , 2003 ;
Broad Peak (8047 m) – Julay 22, 2006 – The 11 woman ascent;
Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Julay 18, 2007
Dhaulagiri (8167 m) May 01, 2008  – first Polish woman
Manaslu (8156 m) October 5, 2008  [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /18/ – Week in Review.

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A big storm sent down most climbers early in the week except for Denis Urubko who incredibly bagged the summit of Cho Oyu via a new line on the SE face in alpine style. 
Huge summit pushes are underway again however, with most climbers – including on Everest – gunning for a May 18-19 weather [...]

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

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Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.
Goal:
Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – [...]

Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 – 2nd report. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, 2gi raport. /Version english and polish/

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Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 2nd report.
Kangchenjunga 2009 Expedition led by Kinga Baranowska.

Goal:
Kinga Baranowska wants to climb Kangchenjunga (8598 m) by normal (first ascent) route.
Accomplishment time:
01.04.2009 – 30.05.2009
Description of the expedition:
The team wants to climb Kangchenjunga (8598 m) by normal route. Polish Kinga Baranowska is attempting Kangchenjunga, as member in K2 Magic Line leader Oscar [...]

Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /17/ – Week in Review.

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Everest was summited for the first time this season on May 5th but the joy was clouded by serious avalanches claiming one life.
Also Kang and Dhaula got summits, with a near-complete ski descent on Kangchenjunga, but sadly the peak claimed another mountaineer last week. Two major climbs have kicked off: Makalu West Pillar and [...]

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

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Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.
Goal:
Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – [...]

Everest Base Camp Clinic.

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The Himalayan Rescue Association Nepal, a non profit organization which operates medical clinics at Pheriche and Manang began conducting a medical clinic at Everest Base Camp in spring 2003, staffed by physicians with previous high altitude experience.

The camp sets up service on or around April 1 of each year and remains at EBC until the [...]

Himalayan Rescue Association Nepal.

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The Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) is a voluntary non-profit organization formed in 1973 with an objective to reduce casualties in the Nepal Himalayas, especially keeping in view the increasing number of Nepalese and foreigners who trek up into the remote wilderness.

One of the most important tasks of the HRA is to try to prevent deaths [...]