From Booklist :

The year 2006 recorded Mount Everest’s deadliest season on record since 1996 (the killer season that spawned Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air).

To tell the story of the 2006 season, which made global headlines due to the troubling circumstances surrounding the death of a climber, journalist Heil, a climber himself, gives us extensive background (more than half the book is a prologue to the 2006 season, and while the backstory will be pertinent to aficionados, it may prove frustrating to those waiting for the real story). There is plenty of fascinating material here, especially the excellent profiles of the key players (including flamboyant Russell Brice, Everest’s most successful commercial operator, a larger-than-life figure who seems to belong on a movie screen), but as a chronicle of the mountain’s “most controversial season,” the book feels padded, as though the author felt he had only enough material for a long article. Recommend this one to mountaineering devotees only, but don’t expect it to attract the kind of general audience that found Krakauer.
- David Pitt.

Review :

“In this authoritative, colorful look at the grimmest Everest season in years, Dark Summit carries forward Outside magazine’s formidable tradition of high alpine literature. Nick Heil is alive to Everest’s majesty but fiercely skeptical of those hubristic souls who attempt to ‘conquer’ her. Through rock-solid reporting and vital prose, Heil leads us up into this rarefied world, step by hypoxic step.”— Hampton Sides, author of Ghost Soldiers and Blood and Thunder.

“Here is humanity itself, personified in exemplary fashion by Nick Heil, addressing the Everest culture’s lack of compassion and coming up with the right answers. Dark Summit is an extraordinary tale, ribboned with wisdom and profound insight, delivered by a first-rate storyteller. I consider the book not a sequel to Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, but an equal.”— Bob Shacochis, author of The Immaculate Invasion.

“Dark Summit illuminates the nuanced personalities of Everest’s modern commercial age accurately, with neither heroic romanticism nor guile. Nick Heil takes a critical yet objective look at Everest and the community of Everest climbers, and then leaves you to pass judgment. If you couldn’t put down Into Thin Air, you must read Dark Summit to understand what it means to climb Everest today and why anyone might accept the risk.”— Peter Athans, seven-time Everest summiter and The North Face athlete.

Product Description :
The inside story of the deadly 2006 climbing season on Everest.

On May 15, 2006, a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit. A week later, Lincoln Hall, a seasoned Australian climber, was left for dead near the same spot. Hall’s death was reported around the world, but the next day he was found alive after spending the night on the upper mountain with no food and no shelter.

If David Sharp’s death was shocking, it was hardly singular:  despite unusually good weather, ten others died attempting to reach the summit that year. In this meticulous inquiry into what went wrong, Nick Heil tells the full story of the deadliest year on Everest since the infamous season of 1996. He introduces Russell Brice, the commercial operator who has done more than anyone to provide access to the summit via the mountain’s north side—and who some believe was partly accountable for Sharp’s death. As more climbers attempt the summit each year, Heil shows how increasingly risky expeditions and unscrupulous outfitters threaten to turn Everest into a deadly circus.

Written by an experienced climber and outdoor writer, Dark Summit is both a riveting account of a notorious climbing season and a troubling investigation into whether the pursuit of the ultimate mountaineering prize has spiraled out of control.

About the Author

Nick Heil first wrote about the 2006 climbing season for Men’s Journal. Now a freelance journalist based in Santa Fe, New Mexico, he was a senior editor at Outside from 1999 to 2006. He has also worked as a climbing and skiing instructor, and has traveled extensively in Europe, Asia, and North America.

* Source : – http://www.amazon.com/

** Previous story : – Books.

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South Korean climber Ko Mi-young, 41, who went missing after a fall from a cliff in the Himalayas, was found dead in a ravine according to South Korean embassy in Pakistan, Sunday – Jul 12, 2009.

- Tragedy on Nanga Parba, 2009 climbing season : Korean star climber Miss Go lost on Nanga Parbat normal route.

2. Italian skier Michele Fait lost on K2.

On 23 June the Italian mountaineer Michele Fait lost his life skiing from Camp 2 on the Cesen route on K2.

- Tragedy on K2, 2009 climbing season.

3. Dutch climber Dennis Verhoeve lost on Cho Oyu.

Dutch Dennis Verhoeve reportedly fell to his death on the way down from Cho Oyu summit on June 2nd. His was the last team still remaining on the mountain this season.

- Tragedy on Cho Oyu 2009 – Dutch climber Dennis Verhoeve lost on Cho Oyu.

4. Polish climber Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri.

Polish ace climber Piotr Morawski has fell to his death on Dhaulagiri, local media have just reported – April 08, 2009.

Morawski was climbing together with Slovak Peter Hamor. The “Two Peters” hoped to summit Dhaulagiri via its normal route, as a preparatory climb before attempting a new route on Manaslu’s west face.

-  Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

* My condolences to the friends and families of these climbers.

* Previous story  : – Tragedy in the Himalaya.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft)

Tourists are returning to Nepal, one of the world’s poorest countries with largely aid-and tourism-dependent economy, after the Himalayan republic emerged from a long civil war in 2006.

Climbing is one of the most popular tourist pastimes but Ang Tshering Sherpa, chief of the Union of Asian Alpine Associations, an umbrella body of 26 alpine groups, said overcharging was driving climbers across the border to Tibet.

“The royalty rates must be reduced if we have to compete in mountaineering,” said Sherpa, who also runs a big hiking agency.

“If the cost of climbing is not competitive, climbers will naturally go to places where they can spend less and we will lose our business.”

Tibet is Nepal’s main competitor in mountaineering as five of the world’s tallest mountains straddle their border, he said.

Nepal charges $25,000 per person to climb the 8,850- metre Mount Everest and $500 for a smaller peak.

Climbers in Nepal must also pay for transporting supplies, equipment and sherpa guides, making climbing pricier than in Tibet from where Mount Everest can also be scaled. Prices in Tibet were not immediately available.

Nepal, which is in political limbo after the former Maoist rebels quit the government in May, earned $230.6 million in 2007 from tourism — 4 percent of its GDP.

Tourist arrivals grew 4 percent last year from 526,000 in 2007, according to the Nepal Tourism Board, the highest number since Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay climbed Mount Everest in 1953 and effectively launched the country’s tourism industry.

The government has set itself the ambitious target of doubling visitor numbers by 2011.

Source: Reuters India

* Previous story : -  How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

** take a look at my photo gallery which pictures the story of the discovery and climbing the Mt. Everest :

- discovery and climbing Everest.

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Iran, Afghanistan and Somalia; adventure news arrived from unusual places while a historic meet was held in Nepal, a call went out for Mongolian horses, a last word was posted on Everest spring 2009 and the Indian Ocean race reached safe harbor.

Outside the regular Karakoram updates, last week also brought an ExWeb special on the “hidden” Gasherbrums.

K2: sky-skier down Italian Michele Fait slipped and fell while skiing down the Cesen route. Ericsson and Fait had already skied 900 meters from C1 and set up C2 in a second climb last week. They were skiing back to BC when Michele suddenly plummeted and died in the fall.

Kalashnikovs traded for ice-axes on Mt. Noshaq Last year, John Mock & Kimberley O’Neil from Yosemite National Park asked climbers to help clear the landmines blocking entrance to Afghanistan’s highest peak, Noshaq (7492m). The mountain has had many ascents including the first 7000er winter climb, but never by Afghans themselves. Now four Afghan men plan to become the first locals to reach the summit of the country’s highest peak, le by project manager Louis Meunier plus guides Jean Annequin and Simon Destombes.

Sherpa climbers First Ever Meet held on 21 June in Kathmandu “Nepali mountaineers have come of age to lead their own destiny,” said one. “Does the state know the plight of Nepali climbers when they get old?” asked another. “Foreign climbers talk more about their yaks than their Sherpas,” a third chimed in. A historic first ever meet of Nepali climbers was convened in Kathmandu on 21 June. The meet was attended by 34 regional mountaineers clubs, mountaineering related association/agencies, approximately 600 Nepali climbers and 100 expedition operator representatives. Over 30 speakers, majority of them Nepali climbers, spoke on special provisions to be incorporated in the drafting of the new constitution to address concerns of Nepali mountaineers such as rescues, social security, insurance, regulations, education and retirement.

Iran: Iran is changing and so is its mountaineering: an avalanche of Iranian climbers is hitting Karakoram. Only on G2, there’s a team of 11 climbers from Tehran, a team of 2 mountaineers from Golestan, and a team of 9 alpinists from Sarab expected.

K2: Bogomolov’s comeback, take 4 “There is no justice in Heaven!” Serguey cried on K2 in 2006, after four fellow Russian climbers perished in an avalanche on the Abruzzi spur, which almost swept him with them. In 2007, he attempted K2 Chinese side, with the Kazakh National team. This season, the Russian climber is attempting K2 for the fourth time, going back for the Pak side with Kazakhs Maxut Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov.

GIII-GIV: The climbers planed to establish a tent in the cwm near 7000 meters.

GIII-GVI: ExWeb special on “the other Gasherbrums” While most Gasherbrum climbers shoot for the two 8000ers – GI (Hidden Peak) and GII – their “lesser” cousins GIII, GIV and GV provide a higher degree of exposure and difficulty, plus a number of unclimbed faces and ridges. Moreover GVI, located at the edge of the range, is probably virgin. Yet little is known about the lesser Gasherbrums, so last week ExWeb ran a skinny on the range.

Nanga Parbat: Three of Göschl’s team members suffered altitude and had to descend to below 4000 meters with Dr. Günther Straub. Otherwise, the climb on Nanga is progressing fast. Louis Rousseau reported that the team hopes to be ready for a first summit bid by the end of the upcoming week. Joao Garcia spent two nights in C2, at 6,000m. Korean Miss Oh reportedly arranged a chopper to airlift her the moment she returns from the summit, in order to take her to Gasherbrums’ BC.

Gasherbrum II: Altitude Junkies reported that out of the estimated six or seven expeditions currently present in base camp, few have high altitude porters. Major teams Amical, Altitude Junkies and Jagged Globe are all cooperating to prepare the mountain.

Broad Peak: Eli Revol and Ludo Giambasi failed a traverse of the mountain. Antoine turned back above C3 on the normal route. FTA’s Broad Peak team leader Chris Szymiec reported that there are a few other teams on the mountain so lines need to be fixed. The team had member Barry Dawe evacuated last weekend due to vision problems.

Last word on Everest spring 2009… Gabriel Filippi, one of the three last men standing on Everest this season, posted a debrief showing an unusual side of the usually crowded mountain. Gabriel, his cameraman and Peruvian Richard Hidalgo launched a failed summit push on Everest North side on June 6, ”Being alone on Everest has its charm,” Filippi reported. “We descended without trails, on a hidden side of Everest, across snow slopes and breathtaking traverses – a pure delight.”

…and early fall kick off? Indian-Tibetan Border Police mountaineers may attempt Everest from its south side in August, according to the Indian Express. The Indian team originally announced plans to climb and ski down Everest’s North side in spring this year, hoping to use their own encrypted communication equipment, but eventually switched to standard satellite-phones at the Chinese Authorities’ reluctance to allow such comm-gear to be used in their territory. Now the ITBP team is back in Indian headlines – reportedly going for a early fall climb on Everest, from Nepal.

ExWeb interview with Linda Beilharz, “this is a combination of excitement and fear” Linda Beilharz’ big goal is a journey on the four Icecaps of the World. She has skied to the South Pole, crossed Greenland and is on her way to the Southern Patagonia Icecap with her expedition teammate and husband, Rob Rigato. Linda talked about their different strong points, why the four Icecaps, the gear and preps in an interview with ExWeb’s Correne Coetzer.

ExWeb interview with Rob Rigato, “joining Linda was a way of supporting her in her goals” Rob is joining his wife and ExWeb’s Correne Coetzer caught up with him in Chile for his side of the story.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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1. You reached the summit of Mount Everest while on a Norwegian expedition, would you of preferred it to of been on a British expedition with some of your climbing colleagues?

I don’t regret going to the top with a Norwegian Expedition because I made so many life long friends in the course of the expedition, especially Odd Elliassen and Bjorn Myrer Lund with whom I went to the top. And of course, Pertemba Sherpa, who is one of my dearest friends also went to the top with me – he was our Sirdar in 1975 on the South West Face. Apart from anything else, it’s great making climbing friends from around the World.

2. As the leader on the 1972, 1975 and 1982 British Everest expeditions, did the media or anyone else ever try to blame you for the ones that perished and never came home?

NO, there was never any question of that.

3. Are you happier climbing or sat in Base Camp running the expedition as a leader?

I’ve never sat at base camp during an expedition. I believe the best position as leader of a big siege style expedition is to be in the camp just behind the lead climbers. In this way you can have a real feel of what the problems are out in front and also how the supply line is working, getting the big picture of what is going on through out the expedition. I have always done a bit of lead climbing, mainly because that is what I love doing but also, once again to get a feel for the climb. It’s a mistake to spend too much time out in front however because you tend to think tactically and loose sight of what else is going on.

4. What have been your most favourite climbs?

Climbing the West summit of Shivling with Jim Fotheringham – It was a 2 man trip, completely spontaneous, Alpine style, interesting technical climbing to a lovely pointed summit and a scary descent down the other side. Another greast trip was when Charles Clarke and I went into NW Tibet to find Sepu Kangri – this was real exploration – not much climbing, but fascinating country and exploration.

5. Over the years you have sadly lost some very close friends to the mountains. Has it ever made you stop and think why am I doing this (climbing)?

You never get hardened to losing good friends but I love the process of climbing and everything about the mountains so much that I have never thought of giving up.

6. What do you think about all these ’stunts’ that happen on Everest? For example the fastest ascent, oldest person, youngest person, snowboarding, wedding vows and even standing naked on the summit.

Thank goodness I got up before the “Stunt “ era. It is of no real significance to mountaineering, but it is a great personal achievement for anyone who gets to the top, and certainly to snow board, parapont, ski from the summit, or for some one wioth a disability, or over 70 to reach the top is also one hell of an achievement. I think this trend is inevitable in the evolution of things.

7. Your wife, Wendy must of hated it every time you said your goodbyes before hopping on a plane for another expedition. Did she ever try and talk you out of going on any?

Wendy has always been 100% behind me on all the climbs I have been on. She fell in love with a mountaineer and has never wanted to change me.

8. Its been nearly 24 years since you reached the summit of Everest. What one item do you think has technically advanced in some way to make climbing Everest easier today than in 1985?

It’s really the arrival of commercial expeditions that run a line of fixed rope from bottom to top and then look after the clients and help them up. Improved oxygen gear and lighter bottles certainly have helped.

9. There are more commercial expeditions on Everest than ever before now. I know that they all bring much needed money into the area, but do you think that there should be a restriction on how many should be allowed on Everest in any one season?

I think there does need to be a level of regulation on Everest both in terms of numbers going on the mountain and also on a code of conduct and guiding qualifications. It seems ironic that guiding on Mont Blanc is very strictly (quite rightly) regulated with the guide needing proper qualifications that demand a long and thorough training, and the guide only having a maximum of, I think it is three, on his rope, whilst on Everest which is infinitely more serious and dangerous, there are no regulations at all.

And finally, my last question.

10: Do you think that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine climbed the Second Step?

I think it is very possible that Mallory climbed the Second Step. He was a very good rock climber, but I think it is unlikely that he and Irvine reached the summit, but you can never be sure, and let’s hope that remains a tantalizing mystery.

If you would like to find out more about Chris Bonington then head over the his website at www.bonington.com

The above Questions & Answers are (C) Copyright of Mount Everest The British Story

* Source :  – http://www.everest1953.co.uk/ChrisBonington

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Not surprisingly, the individuals present were from the some of the most important mountain film festivals in the world, along with the Museo della Montagna staff. Film Festivals in Autrans, France; Banff, Canada; Cervinia, Italy; Graz, Austria; Lugano, Switzerland; Les Diablerets, Switzerland; Torello, Spain; and Trento, Italy were present at that first gathering, becoming the founding members of the alliance.

The challenge was to create an association that not only emphasized mountain film issues common to all festivals, but that also recognized and promoted the festivals’ unique qualities. After many hours of multi-lingual discussion, a number of initiatives were articulated for the group to focus on. A name was chosen – The International Alliance for Mountain Film, and the whole exercise was concluded with a wonderful Italian dinner, consumed with gusto!

Several months later, and the venue has moved a few hundred kilometres east – to the ancient city of Trento in the Italian Dolomites. Site of the oldest mountain film festival in the world, the momentum is building as a slightly extended group gathers for the second meeting of the Alliance and of course to attend the Trento festival. The new festivals at the table include Dundee, Scotland; Kendal, England; Poprad, Slovakia; Telluride, U.S.A. and Teplice in the Czech Republic. Apart from the unveiling of a new logo, the Alliance determines that one of its first priorities is to inform audiences and filmmakers about the global film festival opportunities. As well, information is shared on films, programming and technology, promotion and ticketing and funding challenges.

An agreement emerges to take every opportunity to cross-promote mountain film festivals around the world and to meet twice a year at member festival events.

For more information, click on : – http://www.mountainfilmalliance.org/

Mountain Film Festivals :

• Banff Mountain Festivals
• Dundee Mountain Film Festival
• Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival
• Fort William Mountain Film Festival
• Krakow Mountain Film Festival.
• Zakopane Mountain Film Festival
• The 14th Andrzej Zawada Mountain Film Review in Lądek Zdrój

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Last week ExWeb ran a number of interviews and climbers paid tributes to lost friends. Only two expeditions remain on Greenland while outside Somalia, Pirates are changing their ways.

Broad Peak summit push Ludovic Giambasi, Eli Revol and Antoine Girard planned to set off towards Broad Peak’s S and SE ridges today Monday, for another summit push.

Iran for a new route Arash Mountaineers Club’s climbers led by Kiyoumars Babazadeh and supported by Abbaas Mohammadi, the new head of the Iran Alpine Club, hope to open a new route on Broad Peak’s SW side.

2008 South Korean K2 expedition back to Karakoram Last year, Go Mi-sun and Korean leader Kim Jae-soo summited K2. On descent, 5 of their expedition members perished. Three of the former expedition members are now returning to Karakoram. Following her Makalu-Kangchenjunga-Dhaulagiri triple this spring, Go and regular partner Kim are headed for both Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat. With Annapurna in fall, Go hopes to bag no less than 7, 8000er summits this year.

The third member of the 2008 Korean K2 expedition Pasang Lama is also headed for both Gasherbrums, as a member in Altitude Junkies/Project-Himalaya team. Pasang summited Makalu and Lhotse this past spring.

More Gasherbrums The GIII/GIV team plans to establish an advanced base camp at 6000 meters and ventured up to 6300 meters last week to study the icefall in an attempt to determine the best way to make it into the cwm. Others who arrived BC on Sunday were happy to find the route through the icefall and up to camp one already fixed by Don Bowie, Bruce Normand, Guy McKinnon, William (Billy) Pierson and David Fält. An 11 member team from Tehran is on the way to GII, while recent Piolet d’Or winner Kazuya Hiraide is waiting in Hunza for Finnish Veikka Gustafsson before the two will set off towards GI in a few days time.

K2 A number of teams have reached K2 BC. Gerlinde and David survived a close call, when the team’s Jeep rolled back and fell down a cliff. Chilean climber Santiago Quintero is en route, without porters or supplementary O2. Having suffered serious frostbite years ago, Santiago’s project is called “K2 sin D2” (K2 without toes). Fredrik Ericsson and Michele Fait were denied permit to Laila Peak and went straight to K2. Nepal-based Rolwaing Excursion agency (founded by last year’s K2 summiteer Chhiring Dorje Sherpa) sent a note that before Serap Jangbu Sherpa, two Sherpas summited K2 in 1997.

Gerfried & Co in Nanga Parbat C1 Gerfried Göschl and his team were first to arrive in Nanga Parbat’s BC this year and have set up C1. A pic of the camp shot by Giuseppe Pompili shows serious avalanche paths nearby. Portuguese Joao Garcia and South Korean Miss Oh’s team are among other arrivals in Nanga’s BC.

Spantik: Pakistani lady climber Two Pakistani and a Dane make up the joint Pakistan-Danish Spantik expedition. “Remarkably, my fellow Pakistani mate is a girl – who may become the first local female climber to reach above 7,000 meters,” team leader Mirza Ali told ExplorersWeb.

Farewell to friends: Fellow Australian climbers and expedition mates praised Australian Mick Parker’s mountaineering values last week. Italian climber and polar trekker Michele Pontrandolfo submitted a tribute to Dr. Giuliano De Marchi, recently perished while ski-touring in the Dolomites. In Sichuan, the search for the third missing climber, Micah Dash, was called off last week. Fellow American climbers Eric DeCaria, Nick Martino, Steve Su, Pete Takeda, Nick Rosen and Mick Follari – who traveled to China to help coordinate search efforts – created a ceremony in Qongding for Micah, Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson.

ExWeb interview with Lena Laletina: the Russian view A bio-physicist and long time collaborator with ExplorersWeb; in an unique interview series last week Lena Laletina of RussianClimb.com unveiled the Russian take on climbing, politics, and media. Lena described the evolution from Soviet to Russian mountaineering; reflected on today’s ‘Brave New World’; and listed her own favorite climbers.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

* zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

As is typical in the Karakorum, the 8000 meter peaks will be the focus, with teams already planning attempts on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, both Gasherbrums, and of course K2. Of course, some of the “lesser” peaks of the region will also see action, but everything in the Karakorum is a challenging climb, even if it doesn’t break the magical 8000m barrier. For an excellent list of all the upcoming expeditions, check out this post over at Himalman’s Blog, which is always a great source for mountaineering info anyway.

Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting that many of the climbers in Pakistan are finding it rough going already, and they haven’t even left Islamabad yet. Cancelled flights over the past few days have left many stranded, and some have now elected to take a 25-hour long bus trip to Skardu, rather than delay any longer. Skardu is a the distant frontier town that is the last stop before the treks into the mountains begin.

Not everyone is stranded however. as ExWeb is also reporting that at least one team is already in position on Broad Peak, and are making their summit bid, despite heavy snow. If everything goes as planned, they might bag the first summits of the season as early as this Friday or Saturday.

** Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

In other news: Pakistan is gearing up although in lesser numbers. Last-word debriefs still trickle in from the past Nepal/Tibet-Himalaya season; with reportedly also Cho Oyu claiming a victim last week.

Out on the ice; Skiers Arnaud Tortel and Charles Hedrich have carved a new Arctic route.

American climber found in avalanche debris In an eerie reminder of Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff lost in a 2007 Sichuan avalanche; Micah Dash, Jonathan Copp and Wade Johnson were reported missing on Sichuan’s E Gongga end last week. Fellow Boulder climbers were quickly dispatched to assist in the search; sadly Copp’s remains were found in avalanche debris at 4000 meters near BC this weekend.

Everest North side: Canadian Gabriel Fillipi and Peruvian Richard Hidalgo were two out of four climbers hoping for a last chance weather window on Everest’s North side last week. By Saturday, Gabriel had called his expedition off while news is still expected from the other climbers.

Dennis Verhoeve lost on Cho Oyu Dutch Dennis Verhoeve reportedly fell to his death while abseiling from Cho Oyu summit on June 2nd.

Broad Peak: Last weekend, Ludo and Eli climbed up a new variation route up Broad Peak, while Antoine climbed to just below C3 (7000m) on the normal route. “From 6,500 meters up, the route goes on hard ice, barely covered by 5-10cm of inconsistent snow. It was also extremely cold,” Antoine reported. “Our first bivouac was improvised on the couloir,” Ludo and Eli debriefed. “It was so steep, we had to sleep roped-up to a 3-point belay secured to a snow-mushroom, a piton and an ice-axe [...] After a second bivy, we faced one last obstacle separating us from BP’s plateau, which would lead to the summit – but there was no pass to be found.” The climbers might be headed for a new summit attempt at this moment.

Laila & K2 Skys-kiers Swedish Fredrik Eriksson and Italian Michele Fait are off for Laila Peak, hoping to climb and ski down from its summit as a preparation for K2.

K2 and Broad Peak FTA has a permit both for K2 and Broad Peak. K2 will be led by Fabrizio Zangrilli, “serving more as a coach than a step-by-step guide,” he told Vail daily.

G1 & new route attempt on Gauri Shankar Recent Piolets d’Or winner Japanese Kazuya Hiraide will attempt G1 with Finnish Veikka Gustafsson before moving to Gauri Shankar(7134m), aiming for a new route on its SE face.

Triples French climber, ski-runner and 7Summits summiteer Philippe Gatta is attempting the GI+GII+Broad Peak triple header this season as an independent climber in a large team led by Altitude Junkies/Project-Himalaya’s Phil Crampton, bringing with him three Sherpa fresh off the slopes of Everest.

14×8000ers racers for K2, Nanga and GI Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Joao Garcia hope to turn K2 and Nanga Parbat, respectively, into their lucky 13th, while South Korean 8000er female racer Oh Eun-sun is going for Nanga and GI, before her claimed last 8000er – Annapurna – planned for fall this year.

Kinga Baranowska: fresh from summiting Kangchenjunga, Polish Kinga hopes to turn GI and GII into her 7th and 8th 8000ers.

Final reports from Kangchenjunga and Dhaulagiri Bad weather prevented German Louis and Rupert from completing a ski descent from Dhaulagiri’s summit. Spaniards Alberto Zerain and Koke Lasa were airlifted from Kangchenjunga with frostbite and AMS. “After summiting Kangchenjunga on his own, Alberto wanted to attempt Yalung Kang, but instead went up to Kangch’s high camps to check on his team mates,” Kinga told ExWeb. “He suffered slight frostbite in the process which cost him the Yalung Kang attempt.”

Ben Clark: We’ll be back “We’re coming back to finish the climb – Baruntse 2010,” American Ben reported from Kathmandu. “This route is incredible and something we’re committed to working toward and completing,” Ben stated.

Ang Tshering writes from Nepal… Ang Tshering Sherpa is the major expedition organizer in Nepal, with experience dating back to the early history of Everest and Himalaya mountaineering. He has made it a tradition to write reports from main events – check his latest at ExWeb last week.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

* zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Fresh from summiting Kangchenjunga, Kinga Baranowska hopes to turn GI and GII into her 7th and 8th 8000ers. Field Touring’s team members are also gearing up to attempt K2, Broad Peak – or, in some cases, both.

Broad Peak: Second summit push – no go

Eli Revol and Ludo Giambasi hoped to launch a second summit push on Broad Peak today. “We are attempting the North summit and/or the main point,” they stated over SMS yesterday.

A fresh update today revealed the French climbers’ plans had been delayed due to bad weather though. “We have not left BC,” Ludo’s SMS read. “It’s been snowing all night long – and so continues now. We will wait until conditions settle down instead.”

Kinga Baranowska for GI & GII

“I am going to climb this season also in Pakistan,” Polish Kinga Baranowska told ExplorersWeb earlier today. “I am going for GI and GII, together with Katarzyna Sklodowska (we were together on Dhaulagiri – back then she didn’t reach the top though) and Pawel Wojas.”

Kinga summited Kangchenjunga in spring – her 6th 8000er.

Kinga’s Summits :

Cho Oyu (8201 m) – October , 2003 ;

Broad Peak (8047 m) – Julay 22, 2006 – The 11 woman ascent;

Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Julay 18, 2007

Dhaulagiri (8167 m) May 01, 2008  – first Polish woman

Manaslu (8156 m) October 5, 2008  – first Polish woman

Kangchenjunga (8586 m) May 18, 2009  – first Polish woman

* Official site : – http://www.kingabaranowska.com/

* – all my post, select category :  – Kinga Baranowska

Field Touring: Team’s member list is up.

Field Touring Alpine’s K2 and Broad Peak expedition, led by Fabrizio Zangrilli, is about to kick off. The team comprises 15 climbers among those attempting BP, K2 and the double header.
Fabrizio (USA) will lead on K2 while Canadian Chris Szymiec is taking the skipper role on Broad Peak. However, both of them are expected to climb the two mountains.

Other members attempting the BP-K2 double header are Paul Rountree (UK), David Chiew (Australia), Matthew Gardiner (UK) and Paul Crowlsey (UK).

“K2 only” climbers are Wim Smets (Belgum), recent Dhaula summiteer Tunc Findik (Turkey), Fabrice Imparato (France), Rauno Hoglin (Canada), Sean Wisedale (South Africa), Jake Meyer (UK), Ramin Shojaei Baghini (Iran) and David Ohlson (USA).

The Broad Peak team includes assistant leader Ben Kane (Australia), Isaiah Janzen (USA), Ales Ponec (Canada), Dagmar Wenzlova (Czech Republic), Cleo Weidlich (USA), Barry Dawe (Canada), and climber+expedition Doctor James Freeman (USA).

Dujmovits’ K2 correction note: no climbing plans above BC

“Gerlinde and David Göttler will attempt K2 again via the SSE Spur,” Ralf Dujmovits told ExplorersWeb yesterday. “They are departing on June 10th. I shall follow to BC in about three week’s time. No plans for climbing on K2 from my side though.”

Desnivel.com previously published Ralf was climbing K2 as well – due to a translation error, which was only noticed after ExWeb reproduced the information. The story has been edited today on both the Spanish website and k2Climb.net.

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* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

* zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.